Diagnosing Jake’s Agression Pt. 2
By LukEli K-9 Head Trainer Jenny Proctor
The last blog post covered dominance aggression and how it
relates to Jake’s
behaviors. This week we’ll discuss two other types of
aggression: fear and possessive aggression. You may recall that we were told
Jake was thought to be fear aggressive when he was rescued from animal control,
most likely due to the stress of the environment. Many dogs who have spent time
in shelters develop this type of aggression, which often times fades away once
the dog is in a stable home environment. Luckily the vast majority of dogs
adopted have excellent bounce back and are more likely to have minor training
issues than major behavioral issues. Jake was assumed to fall into this
category by his rescuers, but they had no way of knowing that this dog had much
more going on than they could’ve ever imagined.
Sometimes, aggression issues are simple to diagnosis and
treat. Then there are the other times; the convoluted and complex times, with
root causes all twisted like...well, roots. The root causes tangle together
with innate breed traits and learned behaviors, until it all seems a hopelessly
knotted mystery, never to be deciphered. Add in a dog who has experienced less
than kind training techniques at some point in their life, and you’ve got a
recipe for an anxious, sometimes confused, sometimes scared, unpredictably
dangerous pet.
All this brings me back to Jake. He has displayed all the
types of aggression we will be discussing. Keep in mind that dogs are thought
to be unable to be both dominant and fear aggressive at the same time and part
of the point of this entire discussion is deciding which of these applies in
Jake’s case. With that in mind, consider these:
What is fear aggression and how is it diagnosed?
Fear aggression arises when a dog is exposed to people or
other animals that the dog is unfamiliar with or those that have been
previously associated with an unpleasant or fearful experience. Although some
dogs may retreat when fearful, those that are on their own territory and those
that are prevented from retreating because they are cornered or restrained, are
more likely to fight. If the person or animal retreats, acts overly fearful or
the pet is harmed or further frightened in any way (e.g. a fight, punishment),
the fear is likely to be further aggravated. Fear aggression toward family
members might arise out of punishment or some other unpleasant experience
associated with the owners. Many cases of fear aggression are seen as
combinations or complicating factors of other forms of aggression (dominance,
maternal, possessive, etc.). Fearful
body postures in conjunction with aggression are diagnostic of fear aggression.
I would say that Jake does not display fearful body postures
most of the time. He seems more anxious than your average, well-socialized dog
in new environments, but seems to adjust to them fairly quickly and isn’t
entirely overwhelmed. His tail is broken, so that exacerbates the difficulty in
reading Jake’s signals. I’ve never seen him truly tuck his tail, but that may
be because he can’t. I would also say that he doesn’t know the meaning of
backing down because he never backs down (unless a familiar human is involved).
He always pushes forward when he’s unsure, and that’s what makes things a bit
nerve racking at times. Jake does cower if he even thinks I may be displeased
about something. I’ve never raised a voice or a hand to him, but you can be
sure that SOMEone has done exactly that by the way he slinks around and taps
out. While his behavior in this regard is fearful, it’s only because he’s had
it beat into him (I have no actual proof of that) and it is ONLY shown towards
familiar people.
Fear aggression can often be treated successfully with
behavior therapy, perhaps in combination with drug therapy. This type of
behavior modification takes copious amounts of time and patience, but a dog who
responds well can seem like an entirely different dog. Severe cases of fear
aggression are often the hardest to treat and owners must be prepared for the
long haul.
What is possessive aggression and
how is it treated?
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| Jake really likes rope toys. Can you tell if he's guarding or playing? |
Possessive aggression may be
directed to humans or other pets that approach the dog when it is in possession
of something that is highly desirable such as a favorite chew toy, food, treat,
or person. While protecting possessions may be necessary if an animal is to
survive and thrive in the wild, it is unacceptable when directed toward people
or other pets in a household. What can be confusing for some owners is that it
is not always food that brings out the most protective displays. Novel and
highly desirable objects such as a tissue that has been stolen from a garbage
can, a favored toy, human food, water, or a piece of rawhide are some of the
items that dogs may aggressively protect. Coincidentally, these are all things
Jake guards. He guards bones, food, water, and is starting to guard me from the
other dogs fairly often. Jake is most definitely a resource guarder.
Treatment must first be directed
at preventing possible injury. At first it may be best to confine your dog so
that it cannot gain access to any items that it might pick up and protect. Dogs
that protect their food can be given a less palatable diet, and fed in a
separate room away from family members. Dogs that protect their treats or toys
should have them taken away, and only allowed access to them when alone in the
crate or confinement room. When you are available to supervise, a long leash
and head collar can be kept attached so that your dog can be prevented from
wandering off and immediately interrupted if it attempts to raid a garbage can
or pick up inappropriate objects. Booby traps (shock mats, Snappy Trainers,
motion detectors, unpleasant tastes) can also be used to teach your dog to stay
away from selected objects. Although prevention can help to ensure safety, if
the problem is to be corrected your dog will need to be taught to accept
approaches and give up objects on command. The goal is to train the dog that it
will receive a favored treat or reward that is even more appealing than the object
in its possession. The key to success is to have good control and a
well-trained dog. If your dog will not sit and stay, come, or allow approach
when it has no object in its possession, then there is little chance of
correcting a possessive problem.
Jake has learned “leave it”, “drop
it”, “stay out”, and the good,
ol’, reliable “no” so that we have something to fall back on when that
proverbial steak falls on the floor because, well, I’m certainly not willing to
stick my hand down there to test his bite threshold just yet. Certain cues must
be taught with resource guarders in order to be safe, and these are pretty
standard. You and the dog both need to know what to expect, and teaching some
cues helps immensely. Careful management of the environment is also crucial for
your dog to be successful.
Jake is learning that he has to
earn access to everything from water to the outdoors. We want Jake to
understand that everything good comes from humans and he must play by the
rules. We are the ones with the most social freedom, not Jake. We decide who
gets what and when. This is the best and fastest way to not only teach Jake
acceptable behaviors, but to teach him what is unacceptable as well.
Next time I’ll cover a few more
types of aggression and discuss how they apply to Jake as well.
If you have a dog with aggression
issues, don’t hesitate to seek out the help of a behavior modification
professional. Safety should be your number one priority when you have an
aggressive dog. Family, friends, other pets, and strangers can all become
targets of an aggressive dog. It’s up to you to take the appropriate steps to
manage and counter condition your dog so they can become a happy, well-balanced
member of the family!






